Saturday, November 16, 2013

From the Bar: Tasting Southern Belle wine

Like a self-respecting Kentuckian, I am an unapologetic bourbon drinker.  In my heart and mind, however, bourbon will always take a backseat to wine.  Fortunately, sometimes you get to enjoy both :)

My chef's schedule is a strange one as he actually has three days off a week (meaning he is 100% married to the restaurant those other four days).  During these days we have gotten to explore Nashville, and one discovery is that booze is REALLY expensive in this town.  The locals attribute this to unfortunate distribution laws-- a real supply/demand issue.  So, when we had a compulsory trip to Kentucky last week we took the opportunity to "stock up".  Not only did we bring back a wealth of brown spirits, but we recovered an old friend-- The Southern Belle.


Southern Belle is a fantastic Shiraz (originally Australian when bottled in '08, but the latest vintage, '11, is Spanish) that is aged in the famed Pappy van Winkle bourbon barrels.  I first encountered this wine when I worked at the fabulous Holly Hill Inn in Midway, Kentucky.  The wine list was legendary and the restaurant is steadily awarded Wine Spectator awards-- too bad there aren't bourbon awards, because the bourbon compilation was also mind-blowing.  Southern Belle came our way from R Wine Imports and was basically made to be sold in Kentucky restaurants.  Fortunately, the Pappy/Shiraz pairing does not stop short of being a gimmick, it is genuinely one of the tastiest wines that I have ever tasted.

So, when we discovered it we bought some...and then we went back and bought more.  Unfortunately, we didn't cellar the '08 bottles, but the '11 bottles were just as complex and collectible as their predecessor.  Right out of the bottle, Southern Belle hits you with a complex nose and a fruit-driven flavor of blackberry, cherry, vanilla...and, of course, bourbon-- predominantly the flavors of honey, oak and smoke.  These delicate bourbon flavors compound naturally with the well-rounded Shiraz and are a natural pairing for saucy meats, blue cheese, or decadent chocolate desserts.  If you can find it, I advise that you buy a case.  While this wine is 100% drinkable now, I cannot imagine (and I am sure the wine maker himself is also curious) how this will age...but with the  bourbon influence I am sure this bottle will be a winner for another 10 years at least.

Thursday, November 7, 2013

Pookie-tato Leek Soup

The widow:  a loving girlfriend, boyfriend, partner, significant other, spouse, husband, wife, etc. etc. so on and so forth that has hitched their star to "the restauranter" (specifically NOT 'eur') with the promise of love, happiness, tasty home cooked meals, and leftovers.  They are dedicated and devoted, and that is why the restauranters love them.

The restauranter:  a loving girlfriend, boyfriend, partner, significant other, spouse, husband, wife, etc. etc. so on and so forth that has purposely or mistakenly landed themselves in the exciting and remarkably challenging field of restaurant-ing.  Unlike a restauranteur, these folk do not wine and dine, they slave, scour, sweat, scald, slice and starve.  They love to hate what they do and sometimes hate to do what they love.  They are dedicated and devoted, and that is why the widows love them.

The reality:  while the widow might have initially daydreamed of top chef glory for their partner and lavish breakfasts in bed for themselves, the reality is that the lions share of cooking tasks fall upon that widow, and what is a widow to do when they are without skill or passion for food and yet are tasked with cooking for their beloved restauranter who arrives home beleaguered at the wee hours of the morn?!  The widow gets creative, the widow reads books and shuffles through recipe blogs, and the widow makes many many trips to the grocery store.  The widow also learned first aid and plays nurse, as there are habitually burns, cuts, scabs, strains and sprains to assist with.  The widow perseveres, the restauranter perseveres, the couple becomes stronger and their lives are enriched.  The widow is usually alone, which sucks.  Thus, the widow blogs.  The restauranter works, chop, sear, saute, slice, boil, *sizzle**pop**sizzle*.

While I was thinking over what to cook for dinner tonight and partaking in a solo cocktail hour, I wondered what all of the other Nashville widows were doing and seriously wished that I had some way of connecting with them (unheard of since the restauranters are left with little to no occasion to socialize, they spend their spare time sleeping, reading, administering first aid and having it administered to them, playing with their dogs, reading cook books, sharpening their knives, sleeping, playing video games, eating out, drinking out...).  So a blog and an invitation for other widows to connect and relate.  This will be an outlet for recipes-- what I am trying to bake, cook, and saute for my chef as well as what I am straining and garnishing with a twist.

Pookie-tato and Leek Soup
Warning:  this makes two pints of soup, the widow has also developed the ungodly habit of cooking only in restaurant quantities.  
Can be served warm or cold.

Ingredients:
- one 5 lb bag of yukon gold potatoes (peeled and quartered)
- two carrots (peeled and small dice)
- three celery stalks (small dice)
- two leeks (small dice)
- four cups of good chicken broth (don't skimp-- you can really taste the good stuff)
- one cup of heavy cream (you can substitute 2% milk if you and/or your partner are starting to pack on the pounds)
- two sprigs rosemary
- three sprigs thyme
- salt and pepper to taste
- two tablespoons evoo

Steps:
(1) soak diced leeks in cold water.  The leeks will float and any sediment will float to the bottom-- make sure to agitate them while they are in the water to make sure that the pesky grime is released.



(2) in a large stock pot (or cast iron roaster-- something good for deglazing) begin to heat evoo on low/med.  Add leeks and cook until nearly translucent.  Watch out here, if you are not cooking with a heavy bottom pan, your leeks can burn or brown too much (this doesn't impact the taste too much, but will result in a darker soup like mine).  After leeks have softened and become nearly translucent, add carrots and celery.  Cook for 4 minutes, stirring frequently to avoid sticking.
(3) add chicken stock and scrape the bottom of the pan to release anything that might be sticking.  Add potatoes and 1/2 to 1 cup of water, if necessary, to ensure potatoes are submerged.  At this time, add salt and pepper, and the whole sprigs of herb.  Let simmer for 30-40 minutes.
(4) once potatoes are tender, remove rosemary and thyme stems.  With an immersion blender, blend until smooth.  Add the cream and continue blending.  Taste and add more S&P as needed.

I suggest garnishing with:  diced bacon, quenelle of sour cream, fresh chives, pear, ricotta, or a large sourdough crouton.

This evening, the soup is accompanied by the:
  Elmer Cherry T. Limeade Slushie 
(paired to the time of night, not the dish)
Ingredients:
- Elmer T. Lee bourbon
- Trader Joe's 100% cherry juice
- two lime wedges
- ginger ale
- fresh ginger



Steps:
(1) macerate ginger in glass, top with shaved ice, squeeze one lime wedge over shaved ice.
(2) top with bourbon and cherry juice (1:3 ratio-- although this entirely depends on how many covers the restauranter has done-- word on the street is that Husk had over 200 tonight because it is the day after the CMAs...so it is going to be a 3:1 night in this house).
(3) stir and top with a float of ginger ale and garnish with a lime wedge.